Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 26

Thread: Designing modular wall system--opinions, suggestions?

  1. #1
    Member fearfeasog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    15

    Designing modular wall system--opinions, suggestions?

    Hi all, Mark, preparator at The Carle Museum here.

    I have been asked to design a low budget modular wall system for our galleries to replace/supplement our existing walls, which are not super functional anymore. I was hoping a few of you might look at these screen shots of the design and give me any opinions or suggestions you might have.

    dims of each section are 4' x 8' x 12" deep, bases are 6" high. The main panel core is 3/4 standard ply. faces are 1/2" MDO. Bases are 3/4 melamine in a finish that looks like maple, with 3/4" ply core supports. All will be nailed and glued. I'll butt them together and attach using (for now) metal hardware in the offset channel at the bottom and at the top, tape the joints and paint. May have to attach to the ceiling for longer straight runs.

    Thanks all, I appreciate it! Mark

    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    PACCIN Advisory Committee Member T. Ashley McGrew's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    549
    Hi Mark,
    What a great post! Thanks for sharing your work. What I see has some real merit on several levels. I work in a seismic zone and the separate base in our situation at the museum where I work would provide a great option for loading lead counterweight.
    I will pass this on to the PACCIN list (see a description and how to join at the top of the front page) to request their input (they represent a high percentage of the most hardcore professionals in the community). Thanks a bunch for your post. I will revisit later with my own questions and comments.
    Ashley McGrew - Chair of Publications
    T. Ashley McGrew
    PACCIN Advisory Committee member

  3. #3
    Member fearfeasog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    15
    Thanks! I'll see if I can figure out the list thing, I appreciate that.

    M

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Kent, OH
    Posts
    56
    Thanks for sending to the listserv. A couple observations/questions, having done some of these. Do the base units have levelers? I used heavy duty levelers with Delrin feet so that I can slide units on our carpeted (ugh) floors, and can compensate for the unevenness of a 1929 building. Rather than tape, I chamfer the edges of each box, then caulk and paint, considering the seam a design element rather than a flaw. This reduces repair time at the next use, and is not objectionable visually. Do you have a connection system? I looked into the rotating cam locks that are available, but opted for simple bed rail hardware. It's a bit of a pain to line up (my walls are only 4" thick) but once locked is quite secure.

    In any case, nice design! I really like the base platform - would be much easier to level that out prior and set the panels, rather than tweaking each section as I do. Much like a kitchen cabinet installation. Very elegant.

  5. #5
    Member fearfeasog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by jwilliams View Post
    Thanks for sending to the listserv. A couple observations/questions, having done some of these. Do the base units have levelers? I used heavy duty levelers with Delrin feet so that I can slide units on our carpeted (ugh) floors, and can compensate for the unevenness of a 1929 building. Rather than tape, I chamfer the edges of each box, then caulk and paint, considering the seam a design element rather than a flaw. This reduces repair time at the next use, and is not objectionable visually. Do you have a connection system? I looked into the rotating cam locks that are available, but opted for simple bed rail hardware. It's a bit of a pain to line up (my walls are only 4" thick) but once locked is quite secure.

    In any case, nice design! I really like the base platform - would be much easier to level that out prior and set the panels, rather than tweaking each section as I do. Much like a kitchen cabinet installation. Very elegant.
    I will install heavy duty inside corner mounted cabinet levelers. Our building is circa 2002, nevertheless there has been some settling of the slab under the gallery floors.

    Not sure what bed rail hardware is, but I'll google it! Thanks!

    Now I'm working on cutting the weight, given that a 3/4 " 4 x 8' sheet of standard ply = 60 pounds! I'll do one less rib in the panels. Do you all think I could get away with 1/2" ply for the interior 2 ribs, and 3/4 for the outer part of the "core box?" I'm thinking no, but would love opinions!

    Thanks a mil, ff

  6. #6
    Administrator Mark Wamaling's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Washington, DC area
    Posts
    67
    Mark,

    Thank you for posting and including these drawings! This is a perfect example of how the forum can provide input on technical details and/or issues.

    In regards to your question about cutting down the weight. I would keep the two 3/4" interior ribs. Better to work with 3/4" than 1/2" in this type of construction. You may want to consider another type of 3/4" plywood for the ribs. You mentioned your standard plywood weighs 60 lbs per sheet, but it can vary from 45 lbs to 75 lbs. Most of the weight difference is the amount of glue and resin used in the plywood.

    Good luck and give us an update down the road.

    Mark Wamaling
    PACCIN Chair

  7. #7
    Member fearfeasog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Wamaling View Post
    Mark,

    Thank you for posting and including these drawings! This is a perfect example of how the forum can provide input on technical details and/or issues.

    In regards to your question about cutting down the weight. I would keep the two 3/4" interior ribs. Better to work with 3/4" than 1/2" in this type of construction. You may want to consider another type of 3/4" plywood for the ribs. You mentioned your standard plywood weighs 60 lbs per sheet, but it can vary from 45 lbs to 75 lbs. Most of the weight difference is the amount of glue and resin used in the plywood.

    Good luck and give us an update down the road.

    Mark Wamaling
    PACCIN Chair
    Thanks, Mark. Maybe I can choose the lighter sheets at the Home Depot! (the standard will come from HD, the MDO and melamine will come from a specialty supplier that doesn't carry standard stuff!)

    I'll post progress photos etc. check back here! I'll be making a prototype this week, if the panel saw comes in and I can get it installed.

    ff

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Cincinnati, Oh
    Posts
    1
    Hi Mark,
    I ran across your design and wondered how the walls are working out for you? I'm predicting I will be fabricating some in the near future, and was curious as to your experience.
    Thanks so much,
    Sheri

  9. #9
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Kent, OH
    Posts
    56
    New info! Do NOT caulk the seams! I just had to remove these as a last-minute change, and the caulk made it extra tough. If I do that again I'll embed a string or wire in the caulk to easily part that bead. Ugh! Always learning the hard way!

    Bed rail hardware is a set of interlocking plates, one with hooks, one with slots, that slip together and lock with gravity. That part of the design works pretty well. Also, I skinned my walls with 3/8" "Superply" which gave a pretty good painting surface and is very lightweight. Holds a nail well enough for light stuff, but I'd use screws for heavier stuff. In my world the walls are mostly backdrop, I don't hang a lot of work.

    I'm attaching a photo of bed rail hardware. As I add sections I lift up the new piece, slip it into place and lower it, then drop the leveling feet. A tricky maneuver, but it works. Cam locks may be more elegant, but are pricey.

    Cheers!

    Jim
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by jwilliams; 07-13-2016 at 05:29 AM. Reason: add photo/text

  10. #10
    Member fearfeasog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by Sheri View Post
    Hi Mark,
    I ran across your design and wondered how the walls are working out for you? I'm predicting I will be fabricating some in the near future, and was curious as to your experience.
    Thanks so much,
    Sheri
    Hi Sheri. Still waiting for the panel saw so I can get to work on the prototype! Which is fine because I keep getting great feedback here everyday, so it can wait another day or two. I'll keep you all posted!

    Quote Originally Posted by jwilliams View Post
    New info! Do NOT caulk the seams! I just had to remove these as a last-minute change, and the caulk made it extra tough. If I do that again I'll embed a string or wire in the caulk to easily part that bead. Ugh! Always learning the hard way!

    Bed rail hardware is a set of interlocking plates, one with hooks, one with slots, that slip together and lock with gravity. That part of the design works pretty well. Also, I skinned my walls with 3/8" "Superply" which gave a pretty good painting surface and is very lightweight. Holds a nail well enough for light stuff, but I'd use screws for heavier stuff. In my world the walls are mostly backdrop, I don't hang a lot of work.

    Cheers!

    Jim
    Jim, I looked bed rail hardware up and it looks like something I might do. I suppose some kind of jig for drilling the screw holes to attach them in order to make the placement very precise would be the way to go there. Is that what you did?

    I have my doubts about using caulk anyway. I have seen the tape & paint method (tape as in masking or self adhesive something-or-other tape) work very well.

    "Superply?" Sounds...super! I'll see if my supplier has that. If it's something that cabinet makers might use then they probably do.

    Thanks all!

    ff

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •