Designing modular wall system--opinions, suggestions?

[jwilliams]

Thanks for sending to the listserv. A couple observations/questions, having done some of these. Do the base units have levelers? I used heavy duty levelers with Delrin feet so that I can slide units on our carpeted (ugh) floors, and can compensate for the unevenness of a 1929 building. Rather than tape, I chamfer the edges of each box, then caulk and paint, considering the seam a design element rather than a flaw. This reduces repair time at the next use, and is not objectionable visually. Do you have a connection system? I looked into the rotating cam locks that are available, but opted for simple bed rail hardware. It's a bit of a pain to line up (my walls are only 4" thick) but once locked is quite secure.

In any case, nice design! I really like the base platform - would be much easier to level that out prior and set the panels, rather than tweaking each section as I do. Much like a kitchen cabinet installation. Very elegant.

[fearfeasog]

Thanks for sending to the listserv. A couple observations/questions, having done some of these. Do the base units have levelers? I used heavy duty levelers with Delrin feet so that I can slide units on our carpeted (ugh) floors, and can compensate for the unevenness of a 1929 building. Rather than tape, I chamfer the edges of each box, then caulk and paint, considering the seam a design element rather than a flaw. This reduces repair time at the next use, and is not objectionable visually. Do you have a connection system? I looked into the rotating cam locks that are available, but opted for simple bed rail hardware. It's a bit of a pain to line up (my walls are only 4" thick) but once locked is quite secure.

In any case, nice design! I really like the base platform - would be much easier to level that out prior and set the panels, rather than tweaking each section as I do. Much like a kitchen cabinet installation. Very elegant.

I will install heavy duty inside corner mounted cabinet levelers. Our building is circa 2002, nevertheless there has been some settling of the slab under the gallery floors.

Not sure what bed rail hardware is, but I'll google it! Thanks!

Now I'm working on cutting the weight, given that a 3/4 " 4 x 8' sheet of standard ply = 60 pounds! I'll do one less rib in the panels. Do you all think I could get away with 1/2" ply for the interior 2 ribs, and 3/4 for the outer part of the "core box?" I'm thinking no, but would love opinions!

Thanks a mil, ff

[Mark Wamaling]

Mark,

Thank you for posting and including these drawings! This is a perfect example of how the forum can provide input on technical details and/or issues.

In regards to your question about cutting down the weight. I would keep the two 3/4" interior ribs. Better to work with 3/4" than 1/2" in this type of construction. You may want to consider another type of 3/4" plywood for the ribs. You mentioned your standard plywood weighs 60 lbs per sheet, but it can vary from 45 lbs to 75 lbs. Most of the weight difference is the amount of glue and resin used in the plywood.

Good luck and give us an update down the road.

Mark Wamaling
PACCIN Chair

[fearfeasog]

Mark,

Thank you for posting and including these drawings! This is a perfect example of how the forum can provide input on technical details and/or issues.

In regards to your question about cutting down the weight. I would keep the two 3/4" interior ribs. Better to work with 3/4" than 1/2" in this type of construction. You may want to consider another type of 3/4" plywood for the ribs. You mentioned your standard plywood weighs 60 lbs per sheet, but it can vary from 45 lbs to 75 lbs. Most of the weight difference is the amount of glue and resin used in the plywood.

Good luck and give us an update down the road.

Mark Wamaling
PACCIN Chair

Thanks, Mark. Maybe I can choose the lighter sheets at the Home Depot! (the standard will come from HD, the MDO and melamine will come from a specialty supplier that doesn't carry standard stuff!)

I'll post progress photos etc. check back here! I'll be making a prototype this week, if the panel saw comes in and I can get it installed.

ff

[Sheri]

Hi Mark,
I ran across your design and wondered how the walls are working out for you? I'm predicting I will be fabricating some in the near future, and was curious as to your experience.
Thanks so much,
Sheri

[jwilliams]

New info! Do NOT caulk the seams! I just had to remove these as a last-minute change, and the caulk made it extra tough. If I do that again I'll embed a string or wire in the caulk to easily part that bead. Ugh! Always learning the hard way!

Bed rail hardware is a set of interlocking plates, one with hooks, one with slots, that slip together and lock with gravity. That part of the design works pretty well. Also, I skinned my walls with 3/8" "Superply" which gave a pretty good painting surface and is very lightweight. Holds a nail well enough for light stuff, but I'd use screws for heavier stuff. In my world the walls are mostly backdrop, I don't hang a lot of work.

I'm attaching a photo of bed rail hardware. As I add sections I lift up the new piece, slip it into place and lower it, then drop the leveling feet. A tricky maneuver, but it works. Cam locks may be more elegant, but are pricey.

Cheers!

Jim

[fearfeasog]

Hi Mark,
I ran across your design and wondered how the walls are working out for you? I'm predicting I will be fabricating some in the near future, and was curious as to your experience.
Thanks so much,
Sheri

Hi Sheri. Still waiting for the panel saw so I can get to work on the prototype! Which is fine because I keep getting great feedback here everyday, so it can wait another day or two. I'll keep you all posted!

New info! Do NOT caulk the seams! I just had to remove these as a last-minute change, and the caulk made it extra tough. If I do that again I'll embed a string or wire in the caulk to easily part that bead. Ugh! Always learning the hard way!

Bed rail hardware is a set of interlocking plates, one with hooks, one with slots, that slip together and lock with gravity. That part of the design works pretty well. Also, I skinned my walls with 3/8" "Superply" which gave a pretty good painting surface and is very lightweight. Holds a nail well enough for light stuff, but I'd use screws for heavier stuff. In my world the walls are mostly backdrop, I don't hang a lot of work.

Cheers!

Jim

Jim, I looked bed rail hardware up and it looks like something I might do. I suppose some kind of jig for drilling the screw holes to attach them in order to make the placement very precise would be the way to go there. Is that what you did?

I have my doubts about using caulk anyway. I have seen the tape & paint method (tape as in masking or self adhesive something-or-other tape) work very well.

"Superply?" Sounds...super! I'll see if my supplier has that. If it's something that cabinet makers might use then they probably do.

Thanks all!

ff

[jwilliams]

Yes, the tolerance is pretty tight for it to work well, but a quick router jig will get it done. You may want to insert them prior to skinning so that you can use machine screws and bolts to hold them in place, rather than wood screws, as I've had a couple catch as they were separating and stripped out a couple screws. With your system I'd think a pair at the top would pull things together, since your base will do the job at the bottom.

[fearfeasog]

Thought I'd start sharing a few quick process photos. I'm in the learning curve stage of the game--these images are of a mock-up I'm constructing. As you can see I used crap marterials, but they are the correct dimensions--3/8" ply faces, 3/4" ply guts, with about 50% of the guts cut out by hand. I tried one of those zip tools at first, finally opted for the circ saw/hand saw combo. not super neat, but neat enough once you get the hang of it.

Our new panel saw.


pieces parts.



a panel!